Don't waste too much time in the small modern nucleus along the main road. Instead make for the higher end of town where you'll find a splendid
castle (below) and the borghetto, a cluster of crumbling medieval houses clinging like limpets to the hillside around it.
Originally built in the 13th century by the ruling Brancaleoni family, it was given an elegant Renaissance
facelift in the 1570's. After years of neglect, it has now being given a much deserved restoration - it is open to the public between June and September at weekends;
even when closed it's worth walking up to peer into the courtyard.
The town is celebrated in Italy for being the home of the Club dei Brutti, an association for the world's
downtrodden uglies - their motto reads "Ugliness is a virtue; beauty is slavery".